New Job and Moving Forward

Hello everyone!
I hope it hasn't been too long since my last post although I believe its been a week or two. I would say that I have really started to adapt to my surroundings here. To think I was only half-way through my trip a a fewdays ago! It honestly feels like a lot longer than that but I guess we are nearing almost a month abroad and time certainly has a way of sewing itself when you're at home.

I suppose the big news would be that I was able to land myself an internship! I honestly called the managing editor on a whims notice, got to talking, and was asked to start two days later. The publication is a monthly magazine covering the three main islands that surround a small portion just north of the Honduran mainland, however these are the only Islands. Roatan, Guanaja, and Utila. It's called the Bay Islands Voice and was started by a Masters of Journalism graduate from Mizzou six years ago. We have a small staff of four individuals including myself, which is pretty indicative of most periodicals in Central America, and cover almost every aspect of reportage. General news, sports, fashion, editorial, profile pieces, and investigative reporting as well as documentation. Here's a link: www.BayIslandsVoice.com


I was thrown into the gauntlet on my very first day where I was asked to find what they call an "illustration," or as most photographers in the U.S. would describe as a feature photo. To those not familiar with this, basically you go FIND a photo, any photo! Something that is a current event or human interest. My Daily Iowan buddies should get a kick out of this... Two in one day guys! I admit, for the past few years in Iowa City I usually had a few fail safe shoots in mind. Here in Roatan it is a completely different situation. I can speak the language but not at as well as one needs when throwing a camera into the situation. And I reall have no idea where to go. I began to head down of the streets that looked a lot like the entrance to La Colonia, mud roads and scrap metal houses. Except I wasn't in La Colonia, I was in Los Fuertes, the industrial part of town. I was almost immediately berated by one of the locals there and whenever you hear a Spanish man yell at you and the phrase "Gringo" comes out, it's usually time to head elsewhere. I kept walking West and found a group of eight or ten people washing clothes in one of the dirtiest streams I've ever seen. I began to photograph these two boys that seemed to be enjoying the relief from the heat than actually washing anything and then noticed this young girl that was all business. She was clearly by herself and had no time for games. It still amazes me how quickly the youths here must grow to be adults, she couldn't have been more than 10 years-old. School for these kids is an option and usually a non existent one. Many children, if not most aren't in school. The public schools usually do a poor job, require outfits that most families cannot afford, and the private schools are incredibly expensive. The majority of children here in Roatan are left to toil, look after their younger siblings, or simply get into trouble.



I also shot a soccer match a couple days ago and the visual scenarios were incredible! Everything a traveling photographer dreams for: Dirt field, a bar in one of the fans sections with Latin music spewing from the inside, laundry hanging from the goalposts. I got into trouble because the majority of my shots were "feature" oriented and I had little action from the game itself.




Dad and I were able to buy a kitchen table and chairs for a friend, The Balle's (that's Balle, not Valle), and we delivered it the other day. The family was definitely surprised and happy that such a off-the-cuff requested was granted. I think Alex (the father of the house) had merely mentioned it to Dad one day. Needless to say the family was extremely grateful and invited us to lunch this last Sunday. Probably the best meal I've had since I arrived a month ago! Baked chicken, rice and mashed potatoes! Que Rico! The meal was delicious and the Balle's invited their extended family. We had a wonderful time and it was equally a wonderful meal! Dad has about two months of work for Alex come November so that should help.



Today I was at the office when news arrived that all civil liberties are now revoked for all of Honduras. As a journalist this news is disturbing. Also the fact that the Bay Islands Voice is one of two independent publications in Honduras, which includes the mainland. Nobody is sure what is going to happen with our publication in the next couple days as we go to print in 48 hours being a monthly magazine. I was also a bit worried because I was scheduled to start and investigative piece about the health affects of certain residents who live practically on top of one of two trash dumps in Roatan. However this action was relented the next morning when Michelette offered an apology for the hasty decision so I was able to go and shoot without worry! I was speaking with a colleague today and came to the conclusion that although photographing in a developing country is difficult because of the language barrier, people here are not so concerned with their privacy as are Americans. These people literally live in garbage and were not ashamed to have their photograph taken. Anyone living in the same conditions in the States would either physically remove me or themselves from the situation. They understood and I made clear that: I was not their to exploit, but to expose serious health risks in the largely unregulated world that is Central America.

I hope that everything is going well for everyone back at home. How about those Hawkeyes! I was able to watch the game with Dad on Saturday night and was so very proud to be one of the black and gold! I'm off to Costa Rica and Panama tomorrow to visit with my best friend Mike who writes for a newspaper in San Jose called the Tico Times! So excited!

God bless and much love!

Settling In and Work for Clinica Esperanza

Hola!
I hope everyone is doing well, I have lots to share from the past week or so.

Today is Saturday so that means I've been here in Roatan for little over a week plus a couple days. My time here has felt like something of a whirlwind. Completely busy at times as some days simply fly by. While others seem to drag along, the sun never moving an inch from the last time you looked upon it hours ago. Dad has been recovering from a small case of the flu, so the last few days have seen a bit more activity. Although when he was ill I was free to walk down to West End and enjoy the beach with one or two Puerto Royales, or sometimes just wander down to the dock in the evenings and watch the sun set upon the ocean. Island life reminds me of Iowa in many ways. The afternoons pass by as they may, nobody seeming to be in too much of a hurry for anything. The steady rhythm of the sea seems to keep everyone at its own pace around here. Not too fast nor too slow, but one unified beat. The Scene from our dock at sunset is shown (above), and my favorite cabana in West End (right).

I'm afraid the one place on the island which can process my film had a broken developer (of course!), so I will have to wait even longer to see my negatives until I make my way home from Costa Rica in about three weeks. The coastal city of La Ceiba has the nearest working device, but unfortunately there is about forty or fifty miles of the Atlantic Ocean separating the mainland from the island. It is yet another reminder of how little control you have over certain things here.

All the while I have been photographing the faces and occurrences at Clinica Esperanza. Everyone there has been extremely friendly and I have been granted full access to whatever I feel is necessary to document. Thursday was a big day at the Clinica. Ms. Peggy arranged for "Kids Day" and that was a lot of fun. Pinatas, balloons, y muchas dulces para los ninos! I'm not so sure the dentist was real happy with all the candy being handed out, but what can you do. Ingrid, one of the little girl's of the Valle family I spoke about in my last note was there for a toothache. But of course there she was after the pinata had been broken, scrambling for chocolate!

As well as kid's day, a cruise line had donated around 30 bed sets to the clinic and I had scheduled an appointment to follow one of the receiving families into La Colonia. Although the original family didn't show up, I asked my way into hitching a ride with another who lived in the same barrio. Imagine this! Two bed sets including mattresses, pillows and blankets; a family of five, and some Gringo with a camera all squeezed in the back of a tiny pickup truck. A scene straight out of Roatan I assure you! While I was shooting I insisted on setting aside my camera and helping a young boy attempting to move two frames all his own. I was trekking up the hillside and twisted my knee something fierce. Walking has been difficult for the last day or two but Dad has me on a Ibuprofen regimen so I should be back to normal soon.

I plan to show what photo work I have done thus far to Peggy this coming Monday. So I should know what direction I need to take for the Clinica next week. After that, the plan is to hopefully perform the same service for one or two of the local schools here, and possibly land a teaching job next spring.


Tonight power went out unexpectedly around the entire island for about two hours. I tried to sleep but without a fan the heat was simply too much. The stars out here are obviously breathtaking, but for the most part hard to see. Most houses around here have exterior lights for security reasons, even in the some of the poorest barrios in Roatan. That is unless someone pulls the plug... I love making star photos!


That's it for now. Thanks so much to those of you who responded, I really enjoy your feedback.

God bless and much love to you all!

La Colonia and Clinica Esperanza

Hey everyone!
Sorry it has taken me so long to start this thing, lots to do around here along with plenty of R & R involved. At first I was apprehensive about the whole idea of laying around casually napping away the day, but with the ocean breeze in your face and the occasional "cluck cluck" from a stray chicken or two, island life tends to lull one into slumber much easier than imagined. And yes, there are chickens everywhere! The locals say that they know exactly whose chicken belongs to who, but I highly doubt it. Life is just plain simple around here, I think I may have checked the hour five or six times since my arrival just as many days ago. The days are a straight twelve hours here on the equator with little deviation. Needless to say, Daylight Savings is not necessary in these parts of the globe.

My blog is going to jump around a bit due to the fact that I shot film during the first couple days here and there isn't exactly a one hour photo just around the block like at home. So you will have to wait on my initial reactions to Central America until I can process the film and match the photos accordingly. That being said, let me share what photos and stories I do have, and we will all wait upon further content till I can find a place here on the island that will process C-41 film.

A couple days ago my father and I went to one of the poorest barrios (that's Spanish for neighborhood) in Roatan called La Colonia. Here is one of the families my Dad had helped while he was working with Famalias Saludables. The Valle family had a 3 month old daughter named Hennessey who was born with Down's Syndrome. Not only was the family not able to support their daughter financially, but here in Honduras the disease is also considered a curse and the discrimination bestowed upon them (I can only imagine) was unbearable. Hennessey had died with a few added months of life due to treatment, but my father has remained a close friend regardless. The Valle's had just finished building their house which was quite literally on top of one of the tallest mountains here on the island, with little more than a dirt path with a few indentations to assist one along the way. Alex, the father was in need of work and Dad plans on supplying a construction job for him when he builds his house a few blocks away. The Valle family does not speak English, and of course Dad doesn't speak hardly any Spanish, so my linguistics were put to the test. I'd give myself a D+ or so on interpreting, but we fared through it just fine. I've said this before and I will say again, that despite the fact that these people live in complete and total poverty, I have never seen such happy and content people! They are grateful for what they have, and unconcerned with what they have not.

Today Dad and I walked down the hill to visit Ms. Peggy (which she is affectionately known) and her "Clinica Esperanza." Ms. Peggy, a middle aged woman who has run the clinic for almost a decade is still in the process of building and expanding. Fortunately for me she is in need of a photo story for the clinic so my work for her is a perfect fit for both parties. I began some work for her today, which I will share some photos, but the real grunt of my job begins tomorrow morning at six thirty and will run through the week. What a perfect fit! She is grateful for my skills, and I am grateful for the opportunity to work for my first NGO! Who knows where this will lead me, I can only hope that this is the beginning of a life of service for those in need.

This place is already starting to feel like home. The people are friendly for the most part although for them it must be hard to tell who is here to assist and who is here to exploit. Not everyone on the island is necessarily a charity case either. It will just take some time for me to get to know everyone.

I miss you all very much. Yesterday was filled with homesickness for me, and it can become difficult to enjoy your journey when you have so many weeks to go before you see your loved ones again. Just know that I am doing great here and trying to do as much as I can to keep busy and not only ensure a safe return home, but ultimately a trip back to this beautiful place.

I love you all very much, friends and family.
God Bless!