New Experiences In a Place He Knew So Well

Hey everyone,
I've been back here on Roatan for a little more than two weeks and I feel as though I've seen just as much if not more than my initial one-month stay here back in September and October. The big island is truly starting to feel as though it were home, and aside from the occasional bout of homesickness and boredom, things are fitting together quite nicely. My spanish is picking up (although much more slowly than I had predicted), and I am learning the customs and mores of everyday life here.

Dad has since moved into a new house which he will be renting until his house is finished being built sometime in March. The place is MUCH bigger and more comfortable than the little room we somehow were able to share for five weeks. Aside from the seemingly constant barrage of barking animals, it's very cozy and hospitable. It is amazing what a difference a few hundred meters in altitude can make within the natural environment here! Although I miss the easy access to our ow private dock overlooking the Caribbean, we are now situated higher atop one of the numerous mountains ranges (or large hills depending on how you look at it). The Chit Chats (another type of lizard) are still omnipresent as they are all over the island, however the coconut and banana trees adorn our new yard in hoards and the area is saturated with humming birds and geckos. The humming birds are especially adventurous and will not hesitate to dart within inches between the eyes, fly still and stare as if to say "I know you got sugar in there, feed me." I am also happy to say that we are still in close contact with the Balle family and Dad has done much to help. Ingrid is now attending private school full time thanks to Dad's financial contribution and even assists with her math homework before he himself must "go to work" and teach high school mathematics at the same institution. Also, we met with Alex (the father) and discussed working and payment options for his assistance on laying concrete for the house's driveway as well as a wooden stairwell which will be essential during building, as the house will be teetering along a 60-70 degree slope... No kidding.


The main reason for my early/temporary return before my semi-permanent/temporary stay here is to assist at my current/temporary employer; The Bay Islands VOICE. If this doesn't make any sense, scroll down a tad and you'll figure it out. The work has been filled to the brim with activity. The elections on November 29 were an absolutely amazing thing to experience firsthand and I will never forget it. What an incredible opportunity to be a part of history! As you all know, Honduras experienced a political and military coup this past June. The Honduran government knew the world was watching, and they followed through with one of the most organized, strict, and transparent electoral processes I have ever witnessed. Even after our own historic elections a little more than a year ago. Journalists (such as myself) were granted full access to anything and everything. I still look back at approaching the first (heavily) armed guard at the polling station in Coxen Hole, Roatan's downtown district, showing him my business card and camera, and being lead directly in. No questions asked, no hesitation. "Periodista?" he asked. That was all. After that, all sense of avoidance and apprehension were gone. There is something about that experience which gave me the confidence for the rest of the coming afternoon to take on all that was presented. I can recall being in the streets with hundreds or maybe even close to a thousand National and Liberal Party supporters, surrounded by noise and craziness and colors and movement. All your senses overwhelmed, and I, being completely immersed with my camera and my subjects, the world in front of me, and somehow not being apprehensive a single tiny bit. We see these demonstrations turn ugly so often in the U.S. An authority makes the call and the next thing you know you are on the ground choking, gas fills your lungs and your body wants it out. This did not happen, and I never feared for an instant that it would. We were not only granted an inside view on the process of counting ballots, but actually asked to act as watchdogs. The Fourth Estate in full effect. The TSE (Tribunal Sepremo Electoral) asked us to photograph and document every final ballot form that held the numbers for each district in the Bay Islands. Although there are only three islands which make up the Islas, Roatan is split into two districts. Roatan and Santos Guardiola. "You are the only outsiders in the world which we are showing this," I can distinctly remember hearing from the Presidente de la Municipal. An incredible experience... Amazing. Of course there were widespread corruption rumors, there were stories of false voting records and AK 47's fired in the night. There always will be. If we were played by the system, then so be it. I have learned that this is very much part of life here in Central America. You either fight it and lose, or go about your business and blow the whistle when you absolutely know, within 100% that there is wrongdoing. And then you hide. The rumors and political infighting will be there always. What's that word again? Omnipresent.


Amongst other stories I have been working on, I recently completed a quick profile on the Island's Carambola Gardens, a wildlife sanctuary started nearly 25 years ago by a man from North Carolina who first visited Roatan while he was in the Peace Corps during the 1970's. Everyone you talk to that has been here for more than a decade will tell you how quiet it used to be. How the roads were just paved yesterday, and that the first automobile showed up about a week ago. Yet, the one thing that never ceases to change is the wondrous natural landscape which a tropical island such as this can sustain. These gardens are breathtaking, bordered by a mountainous rim on all three sides except its entrance, it offers one of the most amazing views atop Carambola Mountain, overlooking Anthony's Key, which is yet another wonder amidst the turquoise waters and exquisite wildlife.


I'm also working on a lengthy and somewhat controversial piece dealing with the squatting laws which are a big debate not only here on Roatan, but also across the Honduran mainland. The legislation is often fuzzy around the edges and usually includes land disputed years and years old. From my understanding the law states that if a piece of land has some sort of structure built upon it and is not disputed with a valid title for ten years the property is automatically placed in the name of the said resident. Residency here could quite literally mean a two-story mansion, wooden shack, or rundown automobile. If there is a valid title but no dispute within twenty years, the previously mentioned law applies in this case too. While I was back in in Iowa there was actually a mass eviction of nearly 200 squatters in an area called Oak Ridge near the east end of the Island. Furthermore, there are some new bills being passed around in Tegucigalpa for review, making the story all the more timely. I was able to meet and befriend a family only about 7 or 8 kilometers from our office near a resort named Barefoot Cay. (You would be amazed at the squalor once can find within such close quarters to luxury property. It can be infuriating.) The family said they had been living in the area with no water or electricity for almost five years. Their reason? Wages were higher here on the mostly tourist funded region of Roatan. They had actually traveled here from Cortes (a section on the northwestern edge of the mainland) in order to raise money so they could... build a house! To think of having the vision and endurance to live by the most minimal means necessary in order to create a better situation for generations ahead. Sacrificing all personal wants and needs in an attempt at completing a common goal. I feel jealous at times when I think about their lack of selfish want.

I sit here drinking coffee, on a half-day off from work. Thinking about the people I will be photographing later today. I plan to return to the Palmetto Bay garbage dump this afternoon to check-in on the family I met more than two months ago. They live off the land as well. Except their world is trash and smoke and stink. Their children have respiratory problems and I can only assume that they too, can not endure a life such as this for much longer. Life expectancy is not so long here, but these people are able to find solace in a sunny day, and the smiles of their children and neighbors.

I wish you all the best and I look forward to seeing many of you again very soon.
With love and prayers,

-Ben

Back Home in Iowa, For a While.

Hello to you all

I know it has been a considerable time since I've last updated this thing. Sorry to those in my family who have been 

wondering "where in the world is Ben Roberts." I'm here, back in Iowa, for a while at least... I'm afraid I'll be leaving

 this beautiful fall landscape once again for the hot and humid island in little more than two weeks. Part of the stipulation that I work at the VOICE is my return for a month while our editor Thomas, departs for Africa to begin work on his project, Africa Heart Beat. Here's a link: http://africaheartbeat.com/index.php

My time back in the heartland has been an opportunity to stop and exhale for a moment during a chaotic time in my life. If I can say one thing with absolute

certainty it is that being away for six weeks helped me

 appreciate my home more than ever. I have always believed that right here is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and although a tropical island is also aesthetically stunning, the two cannot equate. Especially during these amazing fall days we have seen with some (of course), more pleasant than others. The brilliant colors of the turning leaves and the warm fall light reminded me of what I missing on Roatan, which is a sense of self awareness and a connection with your natural environment. A sentiment not always known to islanders as well as to those on the mainland. The weather rarely changes there, and when it does it can be nothing but a nuisance. Rain or wind. But usually just rain, straight down to the ground as if it fell directly from the stars... Unless there's a hurricane or typhoon. 

My second to last week in Central America I traveled south to visit my very good friend, Mike, who is a reporter in San Jose, Costa Rica. Mike needed to make a Visa run to Panama and I, obviously, wholly obliged. We visited an archipelago off the northern coast called Bocas Del Toro or "Mouth of the Bull" after a rough translation. A 5-hour bus ride, one hour taxi, and a 30 minute water taxi later we arrived on the main island of Colon. This is wear the majority of business is done and where the majority of the Spanish population resides. This is where Mike and I spent most of our days laying on the beach, sitting on a dock, or walking about this island or that. We managed to

spend one night and an island named Bastimentos and although the we were only located about 2-3 kilometers from Colon, this place felt, looked, and sounded like completely different country! Instead of a spanish population, everyone on the island was dark-skinned black. Instead of Spanish being spoke everywhere the official language there is Patua, a combination of Spanish, French Creole, and "satirical" forms of English. A common example of the language's satirical fashion is the use of the "money" or better known as "share" when speaking Patua.  

After returning to San Jose for a few days we also made our way to a resort in the northern region of Costa Rica called Termales del Bosque, or "Hot Springs of the Rain Forest." Situated near the mountainous town of Ciudad Quesada, the resort had natural volcanic hot spring pools under a three or four layer canopy jungle. This place was simply amazing and Mike and I took full advantage, wading around at night during small lightening storm, both our mentalities were obviously not in favor of using our discretion but rather savoring a fine moment and setting worry aside. The

experience of visiting all three places was truly amazing and I find it incredible to have been able to receive a taste of Costa Rica and Panama. It is easy to see the polarities between Central America and the United States but it was even more educational to see the differences between urban and rural areas. Now that I look back and reflect upon it, the contrasts are most similar to regions right here at home, and the societal/cultural rules remain largely the same. 

I return to Roatan around the second or third week of November only to turn around and visit home for the holidays before beginning my full internship which is expected to last until the end of spring. But for right now it feels great to be home, with all of my friends and family. I will keep you all posted on my whereabouts when there is news to report as it looks as though my "journey" plans to continue for some time now.

Take care and God bless.

New Job and Moving Forward

Hello everyone!
I hope it hasn't been too long since my last post although I believe its been a week or two. I would say that I have really started to adapt to my surroundings here. To think I was only half-way through my trip a a fewdays ago! It honestly feels like a lot longer than that but I guess we are nearing almost a month abroad and time certainly has a way of sewing itself when you're at home.

I suppose the big news would be that I was able to land myself an internship! I honestly called the managing editor on a whims notice, got to talking, and was asked to start two days later. The publication is a monthly magazine covering the three main islands that surround a small portion just north of the Honduran mainland, however these are the only Islands. Roatan, Guanaja, and Utila. It's called the Bay Islands Voice and was started by a Masters of Journalism graduate from Mizzou six years ago. We have a small staff of four individuals including myself, which is pretty indicative of most periodicals in Central America, and cover almost every aspect of reportage. General news, sports, fashion, editorial, profile pieces, and investigative reporting as well as documentation. Here's a link: www.BayIslandsVoice.com


I was thrown into the gauntlet on my very first day where I was asked to find what they call an "illustration," or as most photographers in the U.S. would describe as a feature photo. To those not familiar with this, basically you go FIND a photo, any photo! Something that is a current event or human interest. My Daily Iowan buddies should get a kick out of this... Two in one day guys! I admit, for the past few years in Iowa City I usually had a few fail safe shoots in mind. Here in Roatan it is a completely different situation. I can speak the language but not at as well as one needs when throwing a camera into the situation. And I reall have no idea where to go. I began to head down of the streets that looked a lot like the entrance to La Colonia, mud roads and scrap metal houses. Except I wasn't in La Colonia, I was in Los Fuertes, the industrial part of town. I was almost immediately berated by one of the locals there and whenever you hear a Spanish man yell at you and the phrase "Gringo" comes out, it's usually time to head elsewhere. I kept walking West and found a group of eight or ten people washing clothes in one of the dirtiest streams I've ever seen. I began to photograph these two boys that seemed to be enjoying the relief from the heat than actually washing anything and then noticed this young girl that was all business. She was clearly by herself and had no time for games. It still amazes me how quickly the youths here must grow to be adults, she couldn't have been more than 10 years-old. School for these kids is an option and usually a non existent one. Many children, if not most aren't in school. The public schools usually do a poor job, require outfits that most families cannot afford, and the private schools are incredibly expensive. The majority of children here in Roatan are left to toil, look after their younger siblings, or simply get into trouble.



I also shot a soccer match a couple days ago and the visual scenarios were incredible! Everything a traveling photographer dreams for: Dirt field, a bar in one of the fans sections with Latin music spewing from the inside, laundry hanging from the goalposts. I got into trouble because the majority of my shots were "feature" oriented and I had little action from the game itself.




Dad and I were able to buy a kitchen table and chairs for a friend, The Balle's (that's Balle, not Valle), and we delivered it the other day. The family was definitely surprised and happy that such a off-the-cuff requested was granted. I think Alex (the father of the house) had merely mentioned it to Dad one day. Needless to say the family was extremely grateful and invited us to lunch this last Sunday. Probably the best meal I've had since I arrived a month ago! Baked chicken, rice and mashed potatoes! Que Rico! The meal was delicious and the Balle's invited their extended family. We had a wonderful time and it was equally a wonderful meal! Dad has about two months of work for Alex come November so that should help.



Today I was at the office when news arrived that all civil liberties are now revoked for all of Honduras. As a journalist this news is disturbing. Also the fact that the Bay Islands Voice is one of two independent publications in Honduras, which includes the mainland. Nobody is sure what is going to happen with our publication in the next couple days as we go to print in 48 hours being a monthly magazine. I was also a bit worried because I was scheduled to start and investigative piece about the health affects of certain residents who live practically on top of one of two trash dumps in Roatan. However this action was relented the next morning when Michelette offered an apology for the hasty decision so I was able to go and shoot without worry! I was speaking with a colleague today and came to the conclusion that although photographing in a developing country is difficult because of the language barrier, people here are not so concerned with their privacy as are Americans. These people literally live in garbage and were not ashamed to have their photograph taken. Anyone living in the same conditions in the States would either physically remove me or themselves from the situation. They understood and I made clear that: I was not their to exploit, but to expose serious health risks in the largely unregulated world that is Central America.

I hope that everything is going well for everyone back at home. How about those Hawkeyes! I was able to watch the game with Dad on Saturday night and was so very proud to be one of the black and gold! I'm off to Costa Rica and Panama tomorrow to visit with my best friend Mike who writes for a newspaper in San Jose called the Tico Times! So excited!

God bless and much love!

Settling In and Work for Clinica Esperanza

Hola!
I hope everyone is doing well, I have lots to share from the past week or so.

Today is Saturday so that means I've been here in Roatan for little over a week plus a couple days. My time here has felt like something of a whirlwind. Completely busy at times as some days simply fly by. While others seem to drag along, the sun never moving an inch from the last time you looked upon it hours ago. Dad has been recovering from a small case of the flu, so the last few days have seen a bit more activity. Although when he was ill I was free to walk down to West End and enjoy the beach with one or two Puerto Royales, or sometimes just wander down to the dock in the evenings and watch the sun set upon the ocean. Island life reminds me of Iowa in many ways. The afternoons pass by as they may, nobody seeming to be in too much of a hurry for anything. The steady rhythm of the sea seems to keep everyone at its own pace around here. Not too fast nor too slow, but one unified beat. The Scene from our dock at sunset is shown (above), and my favorite cabana in West End (right).

I'm afraid the one place on the island which can process my film had a broken developer (of course!), so I will have to wait even longer to see my negatives until I make my way home from Costa Rica in about three weeks. The coastal city of La Ceiba has the nearest working device, but unfortunately there is about forty or fifty miles of the Atlantic Ocean separating the mainland from the island. It is yet another reminder of how little control you have over certain things here.

All the while I have been photographing the faces and occurrences at Clinica Esperanza. Everyone there has been extremely friendly and I have been granted full access to whatever I feel is necessary to document. Thursday was a big day at the Clinica. Ms. Peggy arranged for "Kids Day" and that was a lot of fun. Pinatas, balloons, y muchas dulces para los ninos! I'm not so sure the dentist was real happy with all the candy being handed out, but what can you do. Ingrid, one of the little girl's of the Valle family I spoke about in my last note was there for a toothache. But of course there she was after the pinata had been broken, scrambling for chocolate!

As well as kid's day, a cruise line had donated around 30 bed sets to the clinic and I had scheduled an appointment to follow one of the receiving families into La Colonia. Although the original family didn't show up, I asked my way into hitching a ride with another who lived in the same barrio. Imagine this! Two bed sets including mattresses, pillows and blankets; a family of five, and some Gringo with a camera all squeezed in the back of a tiny pickup truck. A scene straight out of Roatan I assure you! While I was shooting I insisted on setting aside my camera and helping a young boy attempting to move two frames all his own. I was trekking up the hillside and twisted my knee something fierce. Walking has been difficult for the last day or two but Dad has me on a Ibuprofen regimen so I should be back to normal soon.

I plan to show what photo work I have done thus far to Peggy this coming Monday. So I should know what direction I need to take for the Clinica next week. After that, the plan is to hopefully perform the same service for one or two of the local schools here, and possibly land a teaching job next spring.


Tonight power went out unexpectedly around the entire island for about two hours. I tried to sleep but without a fan the heat was simply too much. The stars out here are obviously breathtaking, but for the most part hard to see. Most houses around here have exterior lights for security reasons, even in the some of the poorest barrios in Roatan. That is unless someone pulls the plug... I love making star photos!


That's it for now. Thanks so much to those of you who responded, I really enjoy your feedback.

God bless and much love to you all!

La Colonia and Clinica Esperanza

Hey everyone!
Sorry it has taken me so long to start this thing, lots to do around here along with plenty of R & R involved. At first I was apprehensive about the whole idea of laying around casually napping away the day, but with the ocean breeze in your face and the occasional "cluck cluck" from a stray chicken or two, island life tends to lull one into slumber much easier than imagined. And yes, there are chickens everywhere! The locals say that they know exactly whose chicken belongs to who, but I highly doubt it. Life is just plain simple around here, I think I may have checked the hour five or six times since my arrival just as many days ago. The days are a straight twelve hours here on the equator with little deviation. Needless to say, Daylight Savings is not necessary in these parts of the globe.

My blog is going to jump around a bit due to the fact that I shot film during the first couple days here and there isn't exactly a one hour photo just around the block like at home. So you will have to wait on my initial reactions to Central America until I can process the film and match the photos accordingly. That being said, let me share what photos and stories I do have, and we will all wait upon further content till I can find a place here on the island that will process C-41 film.

A couple days ago my father and I went to one of the poorest barrios (that's Spanish for neighborhood) in Roatan called La Colonia. Here is one of the families my Dad had helped while he was working with Famalias Saludables. The Valle family had a 3 month old daughter named Hennessey who was born with Down's Syndrome. Not only was the family not able to support their daughter financially, but here in Honduras the disease is also considered a curse and the discrimination bestowed upon them (I can only imagine) was unbearable. Hennessey had died with a few added months of life due to treatment, but my father has remained a close friend regardless. The Valle's had just finished building their house which was quite literally on top of one of the tallest mountains here on the island, with little more than a dirt path with a few indentations to assist one along the way. Alex, the father was in need of work and Dad plans on supplying a construction job for him when he builds his house a few blocks away. The Valle family does not speak English, and of course Dad doesn't speak hardly any Spanish, so my linguistics were put to the test. I'd give myself a D+ or so on interpreting, but we fared through it just fine. I've said this before and I will say again, that despite the fact that these people live in complete and total poverty, I have never seen such happy and content people! They are grateful for what they have, and unconcerned with what they have not.

Today Dad and I walked down the hill to visit Ms. Peggy (which she is affectionately known) and her "Clinica Esperanza." Ms. Peggy, a middle aged woman who has run the clinic for almost a decade is still in the process of building and expanding. Fortunately for me she is in need of a photo story for the clinic so my work for her is a perfect fit for both parties. I began some work for her today, which I will share some photos, but the real grunt of my job begins tomorrow morning at six thirty and will run through the week. What a perfect fit! She is grateful for my skills, and I am grateful for the opportunity to work for my first NGO! Who knows where this will lead me, I can only hope that this is the beginning of a life of service for those in need.

This place is already starting to feel like home. The people are friendly for the most part although for them it must be hard to tell who is here to assist and who is here to exploit. Not everyone on the island is necessarily a charity case either. It will just take some time for me to get to know everyone.

I miss you all very much. Yesterday was filled with homesickness for me, and it can become difficult to enjoy your journey when you have so many weeks to go before you see your loved ones again. Just know that I am doing great here and trying to do as much as I can to keep busy and not only ensure a safe return home, but ultimately a trip back to this beautiful place.

I love you all very much, friends and family.
God Bless!